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<td align="RIGHT"><b><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"><b>Fashion & Lifestyle</b></font></b></td>
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<td width="1%" align="left" valign="top"><img src="../../images/fashionLifestyle/uniform1.jpg" width="100" height="200"></td>
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<p><font size="1"> <b><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"><a href="../../camden/fashion/">Fashion
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<td colspan="2" bgcolor="#990033"><font color="#000000"><b><font size="1"><b><font color="#FFFFFF">London
Fashion week 2001</font><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"> E: </font><font size="1">
<a href="mailto:lisa@myvillage.co.uk">lisa@myvillage.co.uk</a></font><font color="#FFFFFF" size="1"></font><font size="1" color="#FF5300"></font></b></font></b></font></td>
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<td colspan="2" bgcolor="#990033"><font color="#000000"><b><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Deconstructing
Uniforms Fashion and Real Life on the Same Page 04 April 2020</font></b></font></td>
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<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">A big pocket here, a couple epaulets
there. Fashion writers have revelled in proclaiming that this season
military is big. But disregarding the writer's historical knowledge,
caffeine intake and word-count requirement, questions still go unanswered:
Why is military back? Why do people wear it? Why does it occasionally
resurface?</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">The book "Uniform: Order and Disorder,"
due to be released this month, doesn't answer all the whys, but
it gives great clues by laying images next to one another -- either
in counterpoint or in complement. The often-ironic link between
the history of uniforms and their modern-day appropriation poignantly
emerges: December 1999 photo of the Pet Shop Boys in military gear
giving a concert in Milan appears opposite a 1987 celebration of
the Kuomintang party honouring the Taiwanese police force, and a
1970 image of Breznev saluting during a Red Square parade. The Pet
Shop Boys' faces are as sombre as the faces in the other images,
creating an unsettling parallel.</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">By creating a homogeneous look,
uniforms draw the eyes toward what's not uniform -- the face: A
1970 still from "Catch 22" shows a bewildered, uniformed Orson Welles;
on the next page is a fresh-faced, grinning, uniformed John Bartlett
on a 1998 cover of Out magazine.</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">"We forced some images next to the
other, just to give them strong meanings," explains Stefano Tonchi,
creative director of Esquire and one of the book's editors.</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"> But you can't always force connections:
"To read fashion necessarily as a social idea is wrong," said Tonchi.
"So many times designers just wake up in the morning and like the
idea of a uniform ...or they are inspired by a book, or a movie."
</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">And the product, rather than the
inspiration, is what's shown here. In the book, the clothes aren't
photographed as objects by themselves. Instead, they're shown through
the lens of pop culture - advertising campaigns, magazine editorials.
Depending on how many ads you look at, and whether you're a coffee-table
page-turner or a fashion sociologist, you will see the dichotomy
between the real uniforms, and the role masquerading as fashion.</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">"Uniforms can signify order or disorder,"
said Tonchi." They can signify a very precise political system -
army, regimes and dictator- and on the other side, they represent
counter-revolution, counter-culture."<br>
Or they can simply give you a new style for the season.</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/8881583070/portowethewebsit"><b>Buy
'Uniform: Order and Disorder' through My Village.</b></a></font></p>
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<td width="30%" bgcolor="#990033"><font color="#FFFFFF" size="1"><b>Features</b></font></td>
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<p><font size="1"><b><font color="#FFCC00">Local Fashion</font><font color="#FFFFFF"><br>
<a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.whatsonwhen.co.uk/partners/myvillage/viewevent.asp?id=40428')">Womenswear
Warehouse Sale</a></font><br>
<font color="#FFFFFF"><a href="../../camden/fashion/#wha">What Katie Did</a></font></b></font></p>
<p><font size="1"><b><b><font color="#FFCC00">London Fashion and Lifestyle
2001 <br>
November <br>
</font><b><a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.myvillage.co.uk/pages/fashion-mgenderlaunch.htm')">Mgender
Puts Men on the Agenda</a><br>
<a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.myvillage.co.uk/pages/fashion-RadicalFashion.htm')">Radical
Fashion at the V&A</a></b><br>
<font color="#FFCC00">October<br>
</font><b><font color="#FFCC33"><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><b><font color="#FFFFFF"><a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.myvillage.co.uk/pages/fashion-punk.htm')">PUNK
@ Apart</a></font></b></font><br>
<font color="#FFFFFF"><a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.myvillage.co.uk/pages/fashion-industry.htm')">Help
for London fashion industry<br>
</a></font></font></b><font color="#FFCC00">September<br>
</font><font color="#FFFFFF"><a href="http://www.myvillage.com/pages/fashion-FashionWeek.htm?domain=mycamden">London
Fashion Week 2001</a><br>
</font></b><font color="#FFCC33"><b><font color="#FFFFFF"><a href="http://www.myvillage.com/pages/fashion-wheresmydate.htm?domain=mycamden">Love
at first click </a></font></b></font><font color="#000000"><a href="../../camden/fashion-Hackett/"><br>
</a></font></b></font><font color="#FFFFFF" size="1"><b><b><b><b><b><font color="#FFCC00">August</font><br>
</b><font color="#000000"><b><font color="#FFCC33"><b><font color="#000000"><b><font color="#000000"><b><font color="#000000"><b><b><a href="http://www.myvillage.com/pages/fashion-Loaded.htm?domain=mycamden">The
20 most influential people in menswear<br>
</a></b></b></font></b></font></b></font></b></font><font color="#000000"><b><font color="#000000"><b><font color="#000000"><b><b><a href="http://www.myvillage.com/pages/fashion-Webber.htm?domain=mycamden">Tristan
Webber joins Debenhams</a><br>
</b></b></font></b></font></b></font><b><a href="http://www.myvillage.com/pages/fashion-Webber.htm?domain=my">Spruce
up your wardrobe with Wallpaper*</a></b><br>
<a href="../../camden/fashion-boots/">Heels are down - Boots are in</a></b></font><a href="../../camden/fashion-boots/"><b>
</b></a></b></b></b></b></font><font size="1"><br>
<font color="#000000"><b><font color="#FFFFFF"><a href="../../camden/fashion-MTV/">Video
Killed the Radio Star</a></font></b></font></font> <font size="1"><br>
<font color="#000000"><b><font color="#FFFFFF"><a href="/">How
to be a star in stripes<br>
</a></font></b></font></font><font color="#FFFFFF" size="1"><b><b><font color="#FFCC33">July</font><br>
</b><font color="#000000"><b><a href="../../camden/fashion-couture/">Paris
Haute Couture Shows</a></b></font><b> <br>
</b><a href="../../camden/fashion-Sales/">The London Summer Sales</a><br>
<b><font color="#FFCC00">June</font><br>
<b><b><a href="../../camden/fashion-miu/">Milan Menswear 2002 - Miu Miu<br>
</a><a href="../../camden/fashion-GraduateShow/">Graduate Fashion Week</a><br>
<b><a href="../../camden/fashion-Hackett/">Hackett launches flagship store</a><br>
<b><b><b><a href="/">Top model to launch magazine</a></b></b></b></b><br>
<a href="../../camden/fashion-miniskirt/">The M ini Returns </a><br>
<b><b><a href="../../camden/fashion-black_white/">The Season That Colour
Forgot<br>
</a></b></b></b></b><font color="#FFCC33">May</font><br>
<a href="../../camden/fashion-Halston/">The Legendary Halston</a><br>
</b> <b><a href="../../camden/fashion-HelmutNewton/">Helmut Newton</a><b><a href="../../camden/fashion-FeaturesMay2001/#jag"><br>
Elizabeth Jagger: A Model Daughter </a></b><br>
</b><a href="../../camden/fashion-FeaturesMay2001/#ver">£1.5 million
insider job at Versace<br>
</a><a href="../../camden/fashion-FeaturesMay2001/#jul">Julien Macdonald BA
uniforms</a><br>
<a href="../../camden/fashion-FeaturesMay2001/#sch">Schrager Hotel for New
York</a></b><br>
<b><a href="../../camden/fashion-FeaturesMay2001/#gra">Grace Kelly most elegant
woman ever</a></b><br>
<a href="../../camden/fashion-FeaturesMay2001/#cat"><b>From the Catwalk to
the Stage</b></a><b><i><br>
</i></b></font><font size="1"><b><font color="#FFFFFF"><b><a href="../../camden/fashion-FeaturesMay2001/#jen">Jennifer
Lopez Tries Her Hand at Fashion</a></b></font></b></font><font color="#FFFFFF" size="1"><b><i><br>
</i><b><a href="../../camden/fashion-FeaturesMay2001/#jea">Jeans - This Summer's
Sharp-shooters</a></b><i> <br>
</i><b><b><a href="../../camden/photogallery/liberty/">Liberty Ladies Fashion
Week</a></b></b><br>
</b></font><font size="1" color="#FFCC00"><b>April</b></font><font size="1"><br>
<font color="#FFFFFF"><b><a href="../../camden/fashion-military/">Deconstructing
Uniforms</a></b></font><br>
<font color="#FFFFFF"><b><a href="../../camden/fashion-unionjack/">Rule Britannia</a></b></font></font></p>
<p> </p>
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