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<td colspan="2" bgcolor="#990033"><font color="#FFFFFF" size="1"><b>Fashion
& Lifestyle - <font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"> E:</font><font size="1" color="#FF5300"> <a href="mailto:kensington@myvillage.co.uk">kensington@myvillage.co.uk</a></font>
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<td valign="top" colspan="2" bgcolor="#990033"><font color="#FFFFFF" size="1"><b><font color="#FFCC33"><a name="helmut"></a>Feature:</font>
Helmut Newton 10/05/01</b></font></td>
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<td valign="top"><img src="../../images/fashion-lifestyle/besthelmut.jpg" width="100" height="100"></td>
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<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Writing in The Independent, J G
Ballard called him the greatest figurative artist working today.
"I seriously believe," the novelist also told American Vogue, "that
since the death of Francis Bacon, one of the greatest visual artists
alive today is Helmut Newton." </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Newton himself would no doubt view
the comparison between himself and Bacon with some suspicion. The
photographer has consistently refused to accept that his work is
art. "In my vocabulary, `art' is a dirty word," he has said. But
a major exhibition at the Barbican celebrating Newton's 80th birthday
will elevate the photographer to his rightful place at the forefront
of modern photography. </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Because, love Helmut Newton or love
to hate him, it is impossible to deny the impact he has made, on
fashion photography in particular. During his career, Newton has
created a whole world around the humble garment. It is a world peopled
by untouchable, Amazonian women who live, sleep and breathe in immaculate
make-up, heavy jewellery and vicious stiletto heels. They are proud
of their European, bourgeois status and confident enough to cross
the gender divide effortlessly. </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">It is also a world where a sense
of intrigue, darkness and even crime is often present. In Newton's
pictures, a woman dismembers a roast chicken, a bloodied kitchen
knife by her side, her grease-smeared hands weighed down by huge
sapphire rings and bracelets heavy with diamonds the size of boiled
sweets. His women wear rhinestone-encrusted black evening dresses
- studded leather collars optional - and that's just to the beach.
Silk stockings, corsetry and generously proffered naked flesh are
all part of the Newton aesthetic. So are mirrors, zips and head-masks.
</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Small wonder, then, that when he
first started making waves, his aesthetic was branded "porno chic".
To radical feminists, Newton is the Antichrist. This is the man
who photographed a woman on all fours with a saddle on her back,
and another sitting in her underwear on an unmade bed, with a gun
in her mouth. Ballard, who has also incurred the wrath of feminists
in the past, springs to his defence: "It's just unfortunate that
he has fallen foul of extreme feminists or political correctness.
Accusations of voyeurism and so forth have distracted people from
realizing just how important an artist he is." </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Newton's vision is fuelled by sex,
status, power and, above all, voyeurism - there are often extras
in his pictures who gaze at the women centre-stage. Those are, of
course, also the things that make fashion tick. Small wonder, then,
that much of the photographer's most successful imagery has become
far more famous than the garments he has chosen to photograph. </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Take Yves Saint Laurent's Le Smoking.
When, in 1966, Saint Laurent sent out a model in a man's suit, with
the aim of freeing women from the trappings of feminine, frilly
dresses, he caused an almighty scandal. But it was Newton's interpretation
of it, lit by street- lamps in a Parisian back-alley, that people
remember.</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"> Newton's influence is everywhere.
Mario Testino's breakthrough advertising campaign for Gucci in 1996
- featuring lovely young things lying about with glazed expressions,
in psychedelic clothing, their slender white limbs intertwined -
owed more than a little to Newton. The photographer shot an editorial
cutely entitled "What to Stay In In" for Queen magazine as long
ago as 1965, which is remarkably similar in spirit. </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Newton was photographing dodgy underwear,
flock wallpaper and even underarm hair for Nova in the 1970s, some
20 years before Corinne Day photographed a young Kate Moss in her
underwear at her none-too-glamorous flat, and Juergen Teller shot
Annie Morton as a full-frontal nude on a Dralon sofa, making "real
life" photography famous. And infamous. In the Sixties and Seventies,
Newton's decadent vision may have been labelled "porno chic", but
today the rest of the world has finally caught up with him and it's
just plain chic. </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">There is barely a stylist, photographer
or designer working in fashion today who can fail to acknowledge
Newton as an influence - from the brainless shoots of glossy, scantily
clad B- list celebrities in men's magazines such as Loaded and FHM,
which probably make Newton himself wince in pain, to the inspired
work of Katie Grand, editor of Pop magazine and fashion director
of The Face. </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">"Helmut Newton is the best photographer
ever," says Grand, never a woman to hedge her bets. "Because I work
in fashion and am surrounded by those who are informed by his work,
it's hard for me to tell whether people in general are offended
by him anymore, but I doubt it. I mean, everyone's been so educated
by those images."</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"> The designer Alexander McQueen
says that he, too, owes more than a little to the great man's work.
"Newton photographed one of the dresses from my Dante collection
in 1996," he says. The collection was shown in a Gothic church in
Spitalfields, east London, and offered an early glimpse of the sophistication
that has made McQueen such a huge name in the fashion world. "He
picked a black lace dress, worn in the show by Stella Tenant,"McQueen
recalls. "It went right up over her face, covering it, like a hangman's
hood. Newton said he liked the contrast between the fragility of
the lace and the brutality of the act of enshrouding a woman's face
with it."</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"> It is not insignificant that, while
most people choose to shoot McQueen's more obviously commercial
garments - a wicked trouser suit, say, or an embroidered sheath
dress -Newton selected one of the more challenging pieces. It was
also an outfit that was far more true to McQueen's macabre sensibility.
Newton's choice of McQueen as the designer to introduce him at the
Barbican is clearly an inspired one. It is testimony to the photographer's
genius that, despite their difference in age -Newton is 80, McQueen
only 32 - they have a lot in common. </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Both are preoccupied with the fine
line between beauty and cruelty, fragility and brutality; both see
gender as something fluid, to be experimented with. Most important,
here are two people who push against the boundaries of what is and
isn't acceptable, as if their very existence depended on it. In
this, they are the ultimate agents provocateurs, daring their audience
to rise to the challenge they present in their work, to engage in
a darker and more complex side of humanity. </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Helmut Newton was born to middle-class
Jewish parents in Weimar Berlin in 1920, and the decadent spirit
of that place at that time is imprinted on his work. He bought his
first camera when he was 12, shooting his first film in the Berlin
Metro. By his mid-teens, he was photographing his girlfriends in
his mother's clothes, until, aged 16, he learnt to use a camera
professionally, as apprentice to Else Simon, a society photographer
who worked under the alias of Yva. She died later in Auschwitz.</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Newton and his parents fled Berlin
in 1938. His mother and father went to South America; Helmut headed
for Singapore, where he took a job as press photographer for the
Singapore Straits Times. In 1940, he moved to Australia, where he
met his future wife, June, in 1947. He married her a year later,
and the two remain inseparable to this day. She is also a photographer;
she famously photographed her husband in stilettos and collaborates
with him, curating exhibitions and art-directing books of his work.
</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">In 1956, Newton left Melbourne,
where he had set up his studio and was working for the newly launched
Australian Vogue, and moved to London, where he had been given a
contract with the more established and prestigious British edition
of the magazine. He soon became bored of shooting still lifes of
accessories for the magazine's prosaic "Shop Hound" section and
finally quit the title when required to turn his attention to "Mrs
Exeter", featuring, as he put it, "outfits for the more mature woman,
with a blue-haired lady modelling the fashion". </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">By the early Sixties, Newton was
in Paris and beginning to shoot his most influential work, this
time for French Vogue. In the 20 years that followed, he produced
his most accomplished portfolio. By the Eighties, Helmut Newton
had tired of fashion and set to photographing nudes. Big Nudes,
a series of huge portraits of glossy, larger-than-life women wearing
nothing but stilettos, and shot against a white backdrop, was one
of the more remarkable projects of that time. He also turned his
hand to portraiture, photographing, among others, Claus Von Bulow
and Salvador Dali for Vanity Fair, until, in 1998, he finally turned
his cold and uncompromising eye toward himself.</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Us and Them was a joint show and
book featuring his own work and that of his wife; it was filled
with intimate snapshots of themselves nude and even sick in hospital
beds. On the eve of the exhibition, Newton said: "I find it almost
too intimate. We show too much of our life. Maybe it's better that
the people don't know too much about you. It's more controlled."
In the end, perhaps the most remarkable thing about Newton is that,
despite his now being accepted and, for the most part, revered by
the establishment, he continues to provoke. </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">In 1994, Bulgari, the jewellery
designers, threatened to withdraw its advertising from French Vogue
when it published a shoot featuring a model dismembering a chicken
while wearing its exclusive, fine jewellery. Bulgari changed its
mind not long afterward, safe in the knowledge that, thanks to the
photographer, its designs were enjoying something of a renaissance
at fashion's cutting edge. </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Accusations of misogyny are still
constantly made against Newton's work. In a world where images of
prepubescent girls, and women as limp and vulnerable, proliferate,
that seems surprising. We have survived the girlish waif of the
Sixties, the superwaif of the Nineties andAeven heroin chic but,
despite that, Newton can still always be relied on to whip up a
storm. He claims to love women; he says that the women he portrays
are strong, never victims.</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">"I think it's because Helmut Newton
has dealt with issues long before anyone else had the nerve to,"
McQueen says; "issues that people don't really want to address -such
as sexuality." And does that make him politically incorrect? "I
don't think he is," says the designer, adding: "Well, maybe he is
in suburbia, you know, with the Margots and Gerrys of this world."
</font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"><i>Helmut Newton: Work</i> at Barbican
Gallery<br>
Open 10 May � 8 July 2020 <br>
<br>
An opportunity to see both classic Helmut Newton images and works
never seen before. Through his uncompromising photographs Newton
allows us a tantalising glimpse into the world of extreme sophistication
and flaunted wealth. This exhibition is a chance to gain insight
to one of the most controversial and challenging image-makers to
have influenced our perception of beauty, fame and glamour. </font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">Pictured above:<br>
<i>Fat Hand with Dollars</i>, Monte Carlo, 1986<br>
The Best of Helmut Newton, available at amazon.co.uk priced £21.84</font></p>
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<p><font size="1" color="#FFCC33"><b>Kensington Fashion & Lifestyle<br>
</b></font><b><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"><a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.whatsonwhen.com/partners/myvillage/viewevent.asp?id=42839')">Diana's
Dresses @ Kensington Palace<br>
</a></font></b><font size="1"><b><font color="#FFFFFF"><a href="../../kensington/shops-sothebys/">Sotheby's
Olympia</a></font><a href="../../kensington/shops-sothebys/"><font color="#FFFFFF">
</font></a><font color="#FFFFFF"> <br>
<a href="../../kensington/shops-kara/">MyKensington meets Colette Harkins from
Kara Kara</a> <br>
</font><font color="#FFFFFF"><a href="../../kensington/fashion-lifestyle-mreed/">Michael
Reed - Dream, work station</a></font><font color="#FFFFFF"><br>
<a href="../../kensington/fashion-lifestyle-louise/">Louise Grove-White - Natural
History Museum</a><br>
<a href="../../kensington/fashion-lifestyle-dianemccarthy/">Diane McCarthy - Personal
Shopping at Barkers</a><br>
<a href="../../kensington/fashion-lifestyle-peterinsall/">Peter Insall of Kensington
Roof Gardens<br>
</a><a href="../../kensington/fashion-lifestyle-moragionayoung/">Morag Iona Young
- Colour Analyst and Image Consultant</a><br>
<a href="../../kensington/fashion-biba/">BIBA - Kensington Retro Chic</a><br>
</font><font color="#FFFFFF"><a href="../../kensington/fashion-ossie/">Ossie Clark
- London's answer to Yves Saint Laurent</a><br>
<br>
<font color="#FFCC33">September 2002<br>
</font></font></b></font><b><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"><a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.whatsonwhen.co.uk/partners/myvillage/viewevent.asp?id=55990')">Street
Style Sale @ Christie's<br>
</a></font></b><font size="1" color="#000000"><b><font size="1" color="#FFCC00"><a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.whatsonwhen.com/partners/myvillage/viewevent.asp?id=31111')">London
Fashion Week 12- 17 September</a></font><font color="#FFFFFF"> <br>
</font><font size="1" color="#FFCC00"><a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.whatsonwhen.com/partners/myvillage/viewevent.asp?id=55448')">Whole
Life Festival = Kensington Olympia - 6-8 September </a></font><font color="#FFFFFF">
</font></b></font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFCC33"><b>July 2002<br>
</b></font><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"><b><a href="../../kensington/arts-shorts/">Village
Fete at the V&A<br>
</a></b></font><font size="1"><b><a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.whatsonwhen.com/partners/myvillage/viewevent.asp?id=75560')">Transformation
Through Sound</a></b></font></p>
<p><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"><b><font color="#FFCC33">June 2002<br>
</font><a href="../../kensington/community-jubilee/">Golden Jubilee Celebrations
in Kensington & Chelsea</a><font color="#FFCC33"><br>
</font><a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.myvillage.co.uk/pages/community-50years.htm')">The
Queen's Golden Jubilee - Britain 50 years on</a><font color="#FFCC33"><br>
</font></b></font><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"><b><font color="#FFCC33"><br>
May 2002<br>
<a href="../../kensington/goingout-artsculture-v_a-2002march/#motion">Tata-Naka
- Fashion in Motion</a><br>
</font><a href="../../kensington/goingout-artsculture-v_a-2002march/#kidsapril">Tiaras
at the V&A</a><font color="#FFCC33"> <br>
</font><a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.whatsonwhen.com/partners/myvillage/viewevent.asp?id=11389')">London
Doll's House Festival</a><font color="#FFCC33"> <br>
<br>
April 2002<br>
</font><a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.whatsonwhen.com/partners/myvillage/query.asp?base_country_ids=131037,131091,131109,131150&loc_id=&categories=&location=kensington&keyword=&day1=10&month1=4&year1=2002&day2=10&month2=4&year2=2003&fromnow=&search=Search&loc_str=kensington')">Deepak
Chopra comes to Kensington</a><font color="#FFCC33"> <br>
<br>
</font></b></font><font size="1"><b><font color="#FFCC33">February
2002 <br>
</font><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"> <a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.whatsonwhen.com/partners/myvillage/viewevent.asp?id=69253')">London
Fashion Weekend at the Natural History Museum</a></font><font color="#FFCC33"><br>
<br>
January 2002<br>
</font><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"><a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.whatsonwhen.com/partners/myvillage/viewevent.asp?id=46525')">Harrods
Winter Sale<br>
</a><a href="javascript: network_link('http://www.whatsonwhen.com/partners/myvillage/viewevent.asp?id=19499')">London
International Boat Show</a></font></b></font></p>
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<p><font size="1" color="#FFCC33"><b>Features 2001 </b></font><font size="1"><br>
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