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<td colspan="2" bgcolor="#990033"><font color="#FFFFFF" size="1"><b>Fashion
& Lifestyle - <font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"> E:</font><font size="1" color="#FF5300"> <a href="mailto:andrew@myvillage.co.uk">tony@myvillage.co.uk</a></font></b></font></td>
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<td colspan="2" bgcolor="#990033"><font color="#000000"><b><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">How
to be a star in stripes 06/08/01</font></b></font></td>
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<p align="left"><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF">From candy girl to
sailor boy, this season has seen a strong appearance from our perennial
favourite - stripes. Forget camouflage prints and Grecian drapery
- only a few trends are going to make it to the end of the summer
season, and right up there in the lead is stripes. They made a strong
start to the season, thanks to candy-girl collections from Marc
by Marc Jacobs and Marni. And this autumn sees pinstripes - in many
different colour combinations - making a comeback.<br>
<br>
The secret to the staying power of stripes is their adaptability.
They are the social chameleon of fashion, slipping into punk style,
nautical themes, black-and-white graphic looks and American college-girl
cuteness. They straddled the fashion capitals at the spring/summer
2001 shows, uniting a miscellany of designers under one flag. From
Dries Van Noten and Viktor & Rolf, via Marni and Missoni, Matthew
Williamson and Clements Ribeiro, to Marc Jacobs and Wink, stripes
have been the common thread. <br>
<br>
The stripe may be the insignia of this particular summer, but there
are a handful of designers who always step in line. Sonia Rykiel
is the patron saint of stripy clothes and has made the exploration
of knitted stripes her life's work. "Whether they're broken or angled,
wide or narrow, bi-colour or multicoloured," says Rykiel, "stripes
are indispensable to me." At Rykiel's spring/summer catwalk show,
a finale of a dozen striped knit mini-dresses in every colour of
the spectrum proved that, although others might dabble, the stripe
belongs to her.<br>
</font></p>
<p align="left"><font size="1" color="#FFFFFF"> Stripes also count
Paul Smith and Jean Paul Gaultier as stalwart supporters who have
made them a signature for their labels. Both Smith's English Eccentric
version of multicoloured vertical stripes and Gautier's traditional
navy-and-white Breton pattern are having their time in the sun.
They chose their trademarks well, because stripes, more than polka
dots or houndstooth check, are a classic. That's why they don't
suffer for appearing late in the season.<br>
<br>
In their simplest form, stripes can cast off any designer reference
to Fifties beachwear or Sixties Art, and only seem clean and modern.
The nautical feel of a Breton shirt - Coco Chanel's favoured resort-wear
in the Thirties - has dominated spring fashion, but it's also the
version of stripes most suited to high summer. Unless you sail yachts
or ridicule Frenchmen for a living, this isn't workwear. There's
nothing uptight about the sugar-dusted narrow stripes seen at Marni
and Vivienne Westwood. <br>
<br>
Whether it's deckchairs or yachting, French Riviera style or Neapolitan
ice-cream that inspires the thought, they're for the most part associated
with casual clothes worn on holiday. They are the trend that loves
to travel, while black leather bondage dresses and Fifties frou-frou
skirts are left behind to house-sit (both very good at scaring off
burglars). Even when stripes are worn on home turf, a sense of the
leisured lifestyle is bound to overcome you.<br>
<br>
The only fretful thought that might disturb your calm is the question
of whether they flatter. Stripes, especially horizontal bands, are
much maligned for their, let's just say, broadening qualities. But
there are ways to prevent this stylistic hiccup. An asymmetric-shaped
top will break up any unwanted effect of width with a slice of brown
shoulder. Its variable width of stripe, also seen at Prada and Valentino,
is much kinder than a regular stripe. Diagonal or slightly askew
horizontal stripes, like those used by Costume National and Louis
Vuitton, will only show off the curves that you want them to.<br>
<br>
Sonia Rykiel offers some advice to the cautious wearer. "Just don't
wear them too close to your face," she says, "and wear a necklace
or a scarf around the neck. Or wear a striped scarf, contrasting
with a plainer garment." If you just want to paddle in the shallow
end of this trend, stripe an accessory: shoes, bags and corsages
have all earned theirs, especially if they feature striped ribbons
or rosettes. So, for now, put that black wool jacket back on the
rail. August fashion doesn't have to be a sweaty hassle of sales
and premature knitwear. Stripes are the easy-going summer trend,
happy to do whatever you want them to do. The perfect holiday companion.</font></p>
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