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<div class="content"><h1>When the Cheese Lady came to tea.</h1>
<p><em>“You have to be a romantic to invest yourself, your money, and your time in cheese.” ― <a href="http://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1124.Anthony_Bourdain">Anthony Bourdain </a>, Les Halles, New York. From his book </em><em><a href="http://www.goodreads.com/work/quotes/8914542">Medium Raw: A Bloody Valentine to the World of Food and the People Who Cook </a>.</em></p>
<p>I have always been a cheese lover; ever since I was a small girl and my granddad sat me up on the garden bench with an odd shaped tomato from the greenhouse, a few slivers of fresh cucumber from the hot frame and a big chunk of strong Scottish Cheddar I have loved cheese.</p>
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<p>Nana was more of a traditionalist and it was red-skinned, bouncy edam for wee girls – served on toasted, plain bread with lashings of real butter oozing across its surface, she would cut the cheese thick enough for you leave behind rubbery teeth-marks. The only thing that made this more heavenly was the extra layer of raspberry jam applied when granddad was in charge of supper.</p>
<p>Looking back he was the main reason for my lifelong and extremely happy embrace of all things cheesy. I loved the conspiratorial feeling that I'd get from his fly wink as he handed me a slice of the extra-smelly blue stuff that my Nana made him keep in a jam jar to stop the smell overpowering the entire fridge. I was in on his delicious secret and it made the ripe, pungent flavour sitting on top of the chunky oatcakes taste even more wonderful as I sat swinging my legs on the bunker, crunching into my mid'ser.</p>
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<p>This mutual appreciation we had, him and I, led me to taste and appreciate all cheeses put in front of me. And I am happy to say that I have never tasted a decent cheese that I truly disliked. I say “a decent cheese” because you can't really count that awful, pretend nonsense that has had all of the fat removed and has substituted flavour for additives and colours. To whit, my motto on this matter is simple. If it comes out of a can it ain't cheese (although I still buy dairylea… my son is 20 and at Uni and you will always find my guilty secret lurking in the back of the fridge at all times!). But good cheese, soft, hard, blue, white, I love it all.</p>
<p>So when I was asked if I'd like to go along to an Afternoon of Cheese to Ballathie House Hotel I jumped at the chance! “It's being hosted by Juliet Harbutt,” it was explained, and there will be an afternoon session of cheese tasting and wine matching. Best friend roped in (she has been with me long enough to have sat at Grandad's kitchen table eating jam & cheese) the only thing left to do was jump in front of google and find out more about this Cheese Guru that was Juliet Harbutt. I have to tell you, being the self-confessed turophile that I have illustrated here for you I was more than a little excited – she really was the First Lady of Cheese and I was going to sit at her table and learn from her wisdom! I was clapping like a nine year old en route to a One Direction concert!</p>
<p>The day of the tasting came and it was a gloriously sunny afternoon – still cold – but shades on and summer jeans out of the back of the wardrobe. Kelly and I headed out with chat surrounding our Mums' Macaroni, the best way to make cheese on toast and whether the ban on soft cheese during pregnancy was careful and prudent or eurocratic scaremongering.</p>
<p>We were met by a smiling Jody, the hotel's South African general manager who I am told is a bit of a knowledge font when it comes to wines. He leads us to where the others are waiting for Juliet and before long we're chatting like old friends to a very pregnant Russian lady (we were soon find out our answer to THAT particular question) and friends of Ballathie's owners. Just as I was thinking how lovely all true cheese lovers are we were joined by Jane Stewart of The St Andrew's Cheese Company, a traditional cheesemaker that I am lucky enough to from my Perth Farmers' Market days. Anyone reading who knows Jane's <em>Anster </em>will know how talented this lady is… crumbly, white hard cheese that packs a proper punch of flavour and tastes like… well, cheese should taste!</p>
<p>Jody led us into Ballathie's beautifully appointed meeting room where we were met with a table set for an afternoon of marvel. Plates of fresh, crusty white, crisp oatcakes and slices of almond&fig wheel were lined up waiting to be plied with cheeses and chutneys. Bowls of walnuts, sliced apples, homemade kumquat chutney (I was to discover later that this was a divine little citrus explosion for your tongue) and in the corner, a table groaning under the weight of wheels, slabs and rounds of cheeses of all descriptions. Each place was set with a round of glasses which, as we filed into seats, were being filled with ruby red cabernet sauvignon and crisp white voigner (only two of the day's drinks to be tasted with our selection.)</p>
<p>Juliet was head of the table and instantly welcomed us, encouraging a shuffling of bums over seats so that we were all as close as was possible over the room-filler of a table. Her short-front New Zealander's vowels had been softened by years in England but are still there, warm and friendly with a strong glint of mischief. We introduced ourselves, chefs, hoteliers, cheesemakers and foodies and without further ado the games would commence!</p>
<p>We started with a ban on doing any tasting, sniffing or finger licking unless specifically instructed to do so by Juliet herself. Immediately compliant, this table of grown men and women relinquished control of their senses to the Cheese Lady and, with glee as apparent as children in a sweetie shop, spooned the soft fresh cheese mixture doing its round of the table into place on the plate of cheese in front of us.</p>
<p>The two hours that followed were nothing short of food lovers' heaven. Juliet talks with a knowledge of her subject that can only come from an innate passion. She began by talking about the very basic cheese, this little spoonful of soft white congealed mixture sitting at 12 o'clock on our plates. Made that morning – after more than one disaster it would seem! – the lemony fresh cheese was a kick start to the palate and the other tastes and textures to follow. Juliet talked us through the main “groups” of cheese which she compelled the chefs to recognise as carrying the same weight of importance as wine varieties and whiskey blends. We spent the next two hours listening and tasting – and occasionally being reprimanded for impulsive finger licking - enthralled by this gregarious woman who had spent her life travelling the globe all in the name of cheese.</p>
<p>I've been to tastings before – you know the snooty wine tastings, the overly flowery descriptions, the self-importance of the person in charge. Where for the pleasure of handing over a sizable chunk of your hard earned income you can be made to feel like a total pleb and knuckle dragging neanderthol for failing to realise that Chablis is region and not a grape (or is it vice versa??). But there was none of that, it was relaxed, it was filled with the warm enthusiasm of a passionate artisan; it was down to earth and designed to inspire and educate for all the right reasons. She'd have been my favourite teacher. (Although she did give the chefs quite a specific instruction about how they should be viewing their cheese menus!). Such was the atmosphere my friend felt relaxed enough to give everyone a rendition of the old Scots favourite, “The coo, the coo, the bonny coo” when we were treated to a taste of Devinick Dairy's Broon Coo – a soft white rind cheese that is “Bloody Brilliant” with a Thistly Cross Cider. Juliet's description – no fields of buttery crumpets dancing with the fairies at this tasting!</p>
<p>We were talked though the history of cheesemaking, why the orange rind of soft cheese lets you know that you are about to encounter a smellier, stronger flavour than its white-rinded counterpart. Why that mushroom flavour reminiscent of a forest floor glides through in both and why when you leave a soft white rind a room temperature only to see it running across your cheese board you can expect a salty, over ripened taste to hit your tongue.</p>
<p>We rolled small balls of Dunlop in our palms and released the aroma of almonds, the St Andrew's Farmhouse from Jane's own cellars smelled distinctly of homemade, raw pastry and before long we were instinctively reaching for the perfect wine, cider or sloe gin to accompany what was being smelled and tasted. Through the hard cheeses, the strong distinct flavours and crumbly white Anster and into the blues – I am instantly transported back to my 6 year old self being handed my first ever taste of a stilton. This was a Strathdon Blue from the Highland Fine Cheeses and its soft creamy texture gave way to the earthy flavour of the blue veins. I was beginning to feel an impatient urge to reach for an oatcake and smother it in this wonderful food! The tasting was finished with a smoked cheese, something I enjoy very much and the explanation of rafters in the Alps stuffed full of cheese that was gently and naturally flavoured by the smoke of the open fire over the long cold winters.</p>
<p>Over the course of the day Juliet had busted a few myths for us – copper wire does not give blue cheese its veins; cabernet sauvignon may be a perfect partner for mature cheddar but swig down a glug of cider after your Fearne Abbey and your tastebuds will thank you forever. She became like the priest driving out the devil's work at the thought of a grape & celery strewn cheeseboard and demanded the chefs step up and think harder. We peeled back the layers of a soft paddy's milestone and found out why the edge nearest the rind was softer than the middle (it's a mould thing!).</p>
<p>I scribbled furiously throughout the session determined to translate the Cheese Lady's pearls of wisdom into this blog so that you, readers, would have the same glorious experience as we had had. Not possible… So I have resisted telling all, stopped myself at divulging every little least detail and secret and instead would urge you to look her up and get yourself along to a Cheese Tasting near you soon! I am already planning how we might tempt her back for a Slow Food Day…</p>
<p>As the afternoon came to an end ownership of our senses was passed back and we were given free rein to pass round the baskets of breads, fig and almond wheels, chutneys and oatcakes. Loud chattering, clinking of glasses and Juliet, happy to talk to anyone about any cheese related subject, sat with us and chatted freely to Jane about the art of cheesemaking. We left full, happy and just a little bit more in love with cheese than we had been three hours beforehand.</p>
<p><em>Find out more about Juliet at the <a href="http://www.thecheeseweb.com/">http://www.thecheeseweb.com </a>. We'd like to thank Ballathie House Hotel for inviting us as their guests to enjoy this afternoon. For more gourmet events and menu information from Ballathie click through to <a href="http://www.ballathiehousehotel.com/">http://www.ballathiehousehotel.com/ </a> and sign up to their mailing list or follow them on facebook at <a href="http://www.facebook.com/ballathiehousehotel">www.facebook.com/ballathiehousehotel </a>. </em></p>
<p>Ballathie House Hotel <br/> Kinclaven <br/> Stanley <br/> Perthshire <br/> PH1 4QN</p>
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<h3 class="header"><span class="header-2"><span class="header-3"><span class="title"><span class="color">Visitors</span> Online </span><span class="subtitle"> Love to Eat Perthshire</span></span></span></h3>
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